5 Qs with RoC Dermatologist Dr. Ken Beer

Should you start applying eye cream out of the womb? What formulas are best for you as you progress through your 20s, 30s and 40s? I caught up with dermatologist Dr. Ken Beer to glean answers to my burning beauty questions, below. Get schooled!

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Rouge18: At what age should we start applying eye cream?  

Dr. Ken Beer: Depending on your skin type (color of the skin and thickness), I think that by age 25 most women should be starting to use eye creams. At the very least, they should be using sun protection in a good moisturizer to protect the skin around the eyes from damage and wrinkles.  When starting, the choices available are wide: from vitamin C to retinol to products that are great moisturizers with no anti aging elements.

R18: Are there different ingredients we should look for in an eye cream in our 20s/30s/40s/50s+? 

KB: Definitely- in your 20s it is important to use products with high SPF so that at least 30 spf is used. In the 30s and 40s, retinol is a key ingredient because it will help to regulate pigment and smoothen the appearance of some of the fine lines and wrinkles.  40’s and 50’s require more intervention. I like to use retinol and vitamin C or retinol and a topical growth factor or retinol and a strong antioxidant.  I also recommend thicker skin products with ingredients that help the barrier function of the eye skin. Simply things like squalane are wonderful for this area and I recommend it (it is found in olive oil).  I find that my patients that start a good skin care regimen in their 20s tend to look a lot better than their peers.  Hyaluronic acid (when properly formulated e.g. filling spheres) can deliver deep hydration to the skin of the eye area.

R18: What’s the best way to apply it?

KB: Applying products around the eyes is important. Either use a clean dry fingertip or use a smooth cotton tipped applicator. You don’t want to touch the skin after handling things with fragrance or formalin and even things like nail polish can trigger a reaction so it is really important to be careful. This is the most sensitive part of the skin and it requires some special handling.  I have seen reactions to newspaper ink and to cleaning agents and they can be very difficult to get under control.

R18: Can you talk about whether it’s a good idea to apply retinol during the day?

I think it is a good idea to apply retinol during the day. I don’t think it is irritating and I think that more is better. Retinol is the cornerstone of a good skin care regimen and using it during the day should not be a problem I would also recommend applying it at night so that you get the benefits of dual use.

R18: Are there any considerations to take re: skin type when it comes to eye cream?  

KB: Yes, lighter skin tends to be thinner and more damaged than darker skin. Women of all skin colors tend to get pigment around their eyes in their 30/40 and 50’s and this can be made worse by pregnancy or oral contraceptives so for all skin types, using sun protection is critical. For thinner , light skin, I recommend a stronger barrier cream that can protect the skin. For thicker, darker skin a serum may deliver the active ingredients without adding ingredients that are not needed.

This post is sponsored by RoC. All opinions herein are mine. 

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